Friday, July 29, 2016

Postcard from Spain: Running and Picnicking in Retiro Park

I had hoped to stay in a friend's typically empty flat during my trip to Madrid, but because he's having renovations done that wasn't possible this time. As a result, I ended up renting a little attic apartment close to the Atocha train station because I knew that neighborhood would be convenient for commuting out to Toledo to use the archives there as well as allowing for easy walking or public transit to the national library and the archives I'd be using in Madrid. The bonus: being close to the train station means being close to Retiro Park - one of my favorite spots in the city. Although running along the river or in Casa del Campo makes more sense for longer runs, nothing beats a short jaunt just a few minutes out the door.


I ran here one evening during my first week (which was not a pretty run as I was so hot each moment felt like a hellish eternity and I was having trouble getting my heart rate under control) and then on Monday and Thursday this week in the mornings (much better). I hope to do so again before I leave for the next stage of my research trip in a couple of days. I will say that, although I see lots of diversity in the people walking or enjoying time in the park, the runners in the Retiro (unlike the Madrid Rio) do still definitely skew toward the fitter, the faster, and the male. Nonetheless, I have seen a few other women running in the park. Also promising: so far I haven't been on the receiving end of any catcalls going to and from the park in my workout gear. Nor have I heard or seen any other women runners getting harassed during my runs. This all gives me hope that the running culture in Madrid is developing/has developed to a much greater extent than I would have dreamed possible eight or nine years ago.



The Retiro is not just a place for running! I also was lucky to be able to attend the birthday picnic of my friend Carlos in the Retiro after I got out of my yoga class on Tuesday evening. His Retiro picnic is a tradition but one that I haven't been able to participate in since 2007. It was a lot of fun to briefly catch up with an old friend Sophie there and to meet some of the new amigos Carlos has made since I moved back to the states. We enjoyed drinks and food and two kinds of cake to celebrate the fabulous birthday boy.


Have you noticed changes in running culture in a location you frequently visit? When was the last time you went on a picnic?

4 comments:

  1. I am a major fan of picnics, yet I don't often do them. Growing up, we did lots of picnics. When bad weather blew in, we took our picnics indoors. Sunrise beach breakfast picnics, afternoon park lunch picnics, evening stroll and dinner picnics. I need to work this back into my life. <3

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  2. I love making these vicarious trips to Madrid through you. As for running culture, we've really noticed a huge difference in the 12 years we've been travelling annually to Paris/France. While you can still see the oddly dressed (to our N. Am. eyes) runner (sweatpants at best, accessorised with a scarf!), there are many more runners in general and they're dressed indistinguishably from us). That said, I still encounter incredulity from the hotel staff when I come back through the lobby all sweaty at 8a.m. I suspect they're glad that I'm at least doing it at a time when I'm least likely to be seen . .

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  3. Thanks for sharing photos from Spain! I've been wondering how you are doing and how your runs are going. That is great that the running culture has improved so much! I have done most of my running in the states and most cities are pretty running friendly, especially if there is a lake or river to run along!

    I can't remember the last time I went to a picnic! I really should plan a picnic by the Lake Harriet band shell this summer as they have music in the evenings. Now I just need to make that happen before summer ends!

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